CHOCHENG AW ‘23 Brings Glamor and Humor to the Runway at NYFW
By Stacy Kim | @stacy.kimm
At Spring Studios on February 15, CHOCHENG opened with a grand entrance of playful, whimsical music as viewers were drawn to the edge of their seats in anticipation. Inspired by Italian cinema, CHOCHENG’s Autumn/Winter ‘23 collection continues to support sustainability while bringing humor to the crowd.
CHOCHENG’s signature design of hand sewn petals continued from the first collection, and was showcased this season in the form of a bolero top. The wavy front of the bolero consisted of hand sewn petals, which created a visually popping effect and presented a seductive cutout design. The black top also featured feminine round shoulder cap sleeves and was paired with a long skirt with a front slit. Adding to the monochromatic outfit, the model also styled a black hand ruched tulle on her arms.
Pictured above: The model wore a purple Swarovski crystal beaded coat with a black long skirt with a slit in the front.
Speaking with fashion designer Cho Cho Cheng, he revealed that his grandmother was also a designer; Growing up surrounded by the fashion industry, Cheng knew that he wanted to be a designer at an early age. Cho Cho Cheng is one of the few Chinese designers who found success in showing on the official NYFW calendar this season, and NOW Magazine was able to interview him about his collection.
Cheng explained the collection’s theme was based on 8 ½ by filmmaker Federico Fellini.
“The Italian movie depicts the difficulty of the creation process and is overall a happy, comedy movie with a famous soundtrack,” says Cheng. “The movie is part retrospective, part looking into the future. [It’s] a reflection of where we are; like we have to look back to when I started.”
This flowy, neutral white silk dress was vegan made and supported Cheng’s views to create a sustainable brand committed to environmentally conscious manufacturing and cruelty-free fashion. As a long-time vegetarian, Cheng’s passion for animals and sustainability has also led to him making his brand vegan.
The new collection also featured plum, blush pink, and neutral colors inspired by French painter Marie Laurencin’s color palette. The collar of the blush jacket above contrasted in black and had detailed fold designs along the neckline.
When asked about his intentions of basing his theme on 8 ½, Cheng responds, “Both glamor and humor have helped a lot of people [through difficult times], and that’s something I wanted to have in my collection.”
In addition to vegan silk, CHOCHENG’s collection also includes natural cotton material and this vibrant blue set was also inspired by Cheng’s personal style that he wears. The model was seen holding a handmade basket bag which also aligns with the sustainable route the brand is building.
Cheng wanted to keep the glamor in fur designs, so he opted for vegan products and sourced these fabrics from heritage suppliers in Europe. The fashion designer’s time previously studying British tailoring in London has impacted his designs and craftsmanship. A detailed braid ran along the center of the dress, balancing with the puffed shoulder sleeves and round earrings.
Pictured above: A plum color set made of sustainable cotton velvet that features a seductive cut out design at the top.
Fashion designer Cho Cho Cheng prioritizes comfort within his designs and aspires to continue building a brand that is glamorous, but also environment-friendly. Cheng hopes that his designs and runway show can provide both glamor and humor, bringing comfort to others.
All photographs credited to CHOCHENG.